Buying a used boat - part 1
A series of articles covering all the things to check when buying a boat
Introduction
So you’ve narrowed down the type of boat you want with the right type of engine.
You’ve also chosen a storage option that suits your budget, and have a good idea of equipment you need to buy as well as running costs including fuel and boat insurance. Great - you are ready to view and inspect some budget boats as a serious buyer.
This series of articles can be used as a checklist to make sure you inspect a boat thoroughly before making an offer. It will also help you walk away if you discover a serious problem.
Boat hull and fittings
Most boats you come across will be made of GRP/fibreglass with a white or coloured gelcoat. Gelcoat is a resin-based paint that cures to a very hard surface 1-2mm thick, protecting the fibreglass laminate underneath.
It’s common to see ‘spider cracks’ in gelcoat. This can be caused by stress in the hull, and also by screws if the holes in the gelcoat were not countersunk. Above the water line, spider cracks are really just a cosmetic issue. Removing them involves opening up the crack in the gelcoat - without damaging the fibreglass laminate - and applying fresh gelcoat in a matching colour. Relatively easy but time consuming and messy.
Spider cracks or indeed any cracks, dings or gouges in the gelcoat below the water line are a bigger problem. Water can get into the fibreglass laminate and cause it to break down. My boat had a dirty bottom resulting from a launching mishap or grounding. The gelcoat was scraped off but the laminate underneath was undamaged, so I fixed it by tidying up the edges of the damage and applying new gelcoat.
Timber is often used to provide structural support within fibreglass boats. It is commonly used as the core of the transom, stringers that run along the length of the boat and the floor. You must check these are sound and have not been damaged by water ingress.
Checks
- Tap all around the rear face of the transom with a rubber mallet or a screwdriver handle. If the tone of the sound changes or it is hollow-sounding the timber core may be rotten. This can be repaired but it’s a big job involving cutting out the entire transom, fitting a new core, laying up fibreglass to strengthen the structure and applying new gelcoat.
- While you are here, check the drain plug at the bottom of the transom. It may be a nut that screws in to a plate, or a plastic bung.
- Examine the hull closely under the waterline looking for any stress cracks, gouges or scrapes in the gelcoat.
- Check any through-hull fittings under the waterline very carefully to ensure they are watertight
- Check all fittings above the waterline are secure (rails, cleats, brackets, boarding ladders, windscreens)
- Check the condition of the rub-rail. You may find evidence of a collision, so check the surrounding hull area carefully for any damage.
- Look in the anchor locker; budget for an anchor, chain and rode if this is not included in the sale.
- Check the winch strap is attached to a sturdy fitting on the bow. There should also be a chain or strong strap holding the bow in place, in case the winch fails.